We spent Saturday and Sunday exploring the area around Luang Namtha.
Saturday we rented bicycles (very basic mtn bikes) to explore some of the area around town. Luang Namtha sits in a broad and mostly flat valley, so it's easy riding. We first headed north out of town and out to a small waterfall a few kilometers away. The road to the waterfall is unpaved and quite bumpy, but we took plenty of photo breaks. After walking around the waterfall area, we headed south through farmland, mostly rice paddies. Visited a small and very unadorned temple in a small town, then turned onto another dirt road southwest through the farmland and past several small villages. As we rode by, people--especially children--would often call out sabaidee (hello) and wave. At one spot there were three men in a paddy next to the road harvesting rice plants by hand (virtually all the agriculture we've seen in Laos is non-mechanized). We stopped to take pictures, and one of them called out, and then beckoned to join them and help out. I rolled up my pants and waded out into the paddy (shin deep) and pulled rice plants with them for a little while. They seemed to find it hilarious; we all laughed a lot and they thanked me profusely for my help. They also helped me walk back along the very slippery and narrow berm between fields so I didn't end up on my ass in the mud. We continued a few more km through farmland and villages back to the main highway, stopped at a roadside stand for some oranges, and then rode the few km back to town.
Sunday we rented a motorbike so we could explore a little farther afield. After warming up and getting comfortable on the bike on the easy streets around town and up to a stupa at the edge of town, we headed south toward a Thai Lue village known for weaving. A few km of dirt road brought us to Ban Pieng Ngam, which is at the end of the road and surrounded by farmland. It's a very small village, maybe 20 families, and as soon as we stopped the bike we were approached by several women offering to sell us their hand-woven scarves and other items. Ellen of course obliged, and then gave them gifts of embroidery thread she'd brought along. One of the women took us to her home to show us how she weaves. Almost every house has a loom underneath, and many of them were in use as we walked around the village.
From there, we headed north to visit another stupa. This one dates to the 1600s, but was bombed and destroyed during the war. They have a new one right next to it. Another 10 km or so of dirt road brought us back to town. After lunch we did a little more exploring north of town, then returned the motor bike.
Today we took a minibus from Luang Namtha to Luang Prabang. The ride was about 8 hours almost entirely on rough unpaved roads (paved roads are scarce in Laos). Great scenery, though. On arrival here we took a tuk tuk from the bus station into town, and found a nice guesthouse conveniently located to the city historic center (a UNESCO World Heritage site). Had a great dinner in the market area and walked out some of the kinks from the bus ride.
Timing note: Mom was concerned that I'm posting to the blog and sending emails in the middle of the night. Not to worry. I've left my computer on Oregon time (in part so it's easy to see what time it is at home), and that's the time that records when items post. For those keeping track, Oregon is at GMT-8 hrs; here we're at GMT+7 hrs.
Monday, January 31, 2011
Saturday, January 29, 2011
Trekking on the Ban Nalan trail
We returned yesterday from a two-day guided trek on the Ban Nalan trail, in the Nam Ha National Protected Area in northern Laos. In addition to two local guides, we were accompanied by a young couple from Germany and man from the Mont Blanc area of France.
After a short ride in a minibus to the village of Ban Chalemsouk, we started our trek by climbing steadily through the jungle toward the top of a ridge. Once there, we took a break for lunch. Our guides cut banana leaves and spread them out as an instant table. Then they piled on the food: sticky rice, a pork and vegetables dish, steamed cabbage and bok choy, other greens, a tomato-based sauce, and a noodle dish. We all ate with our fingers, Lao style. After lunch we continued through the forest, and eventually descended toward the Khmu village where we would spend the night. This village is currently only accessible by the very steep and rough trail we were on, but the residents are in the process of cutting a small road, just wide enough for motorbikes or small tractors, so that they have easier access to outside. A little before we reached the village, we encountered all the village men sitting in a clearing and passing the local homebrew, lao-lao. They were continuing the celebration from a wedding the day before. Of course they insisted we share some before we headed on down the trail. Once in the village, we dropped our gear in the room they have for visiting trekkers and went for a very refreshing swim in the river.
This is a fairly large village, with maybe 30-40 families. There are pigs (adults and many piglets), chickens, and dogs wandering everywhere and mostly coexisting well. Lots of kids, who all loved to be photographed and then see the pics on the camera screen. Every family has a house for living (with space underneath for their animals--the heat source), a small house nearby for their rice storage, and most seem to have a small garden plot as well. The rice fields are a bit away from the village and across the river.
After some pleasant wandering and way too many photos, we returned for a great dinner of pumpkin soup, a string bean dish, another tomato salsa, chicken, and of course sticky rice. Again, family style on banana leaves, and all digging in. We had spoons for the soup, but all shared from the same two large bowls. After dinner one of the villagers came over with a bottle of lao-lao, and we passed the glass around until we'd finished it off. Later in the evening we were invited to sit around the fire with one small group of villagers. They took turns singing, there was lots of laughing, and several beers were passed around. Around the edge of the fire were a couple of small packages wrapped in banana leaves: tadpoles cooking for a late night snack.
In the morning we had a hearty breakfast of sticky rice, green beans, and eggs and then hit the trail again. We walked downstream along the river for a while, then climbed steeply up and over a ridge. Lunch on top, then a descent to a Lanten village on the other side. The Lanten have started to move away from their traditional subsistence farming (mostly rice) toward cash crops: primarily rubber and cotton. They spin the cotton, weave cloth, dye it, and produce some clothing as well as selling the cloth. Most of the local ag production is exported to China, which is just a few kilometers north of here and seems to be Laos' main trading partner.
Photo note: To keep things manageable, I'm starting a new Picasa album for the pictures since crossing into Laos.
The album with Thailand pics is at http://picasaweb.google.com/econodan/SoutheastAsiaWinter2011Part1. New pics are going into http://picasaweb.google.com/econodan/SoutheastAsiaWinter2011Part2.
Not much there yet, but stay tuned.
After a short ride in a minibus to the village of Ban Chalemsouk, we started our trek by climbing steadily through the jungle toward the top of a ridge. Once there, we took a break for lunch. Our guides cut banana leaves and spread them out as an instant table. Then they piled on the food: sticky rice, a pork and vegetables dish, steamed cabbage and bok choy, other greens, a tomato-based sauce, and a noodle dish. We all ate with our fingers, Lao style. After lunch we continued through the forest, and eventually descended toward the Khmu village where we would spend the night. This village is currently only accessible by the very steep and rough trail we were on, but the residents are in the process of cutting a small road, just wide enough for motorbikes or small tractors, so that they have easier access to outside. A little before we reached the village, we encountered all the village men sitting in a clearing and passing the local homebrew, lao-lao. They were continuing the celebration from a wedding the day before. Of course they insisted we share some before we headed on down the trail. Once in the village, we dropped our gear in the room they have for visiting trekkers and went for a very refreshing swim in the river.
This is a fairly large village, with maybe 30-40 families. There are pigs (adults and many piglets), chickens, and dogs wandering everywhere and mostly coexisting well. Lots of kids, who all loved to be photographed and then see the pics on the camera screen. Every family has a house for living (with space underneath for their animals--the heat source), a small house nearby for their rice storage, and most seem to have a small garden plot as well. The rice fields are a bit away from the village and across the river.
After some pleasant wandering and way too many photos, we returned for a great dinner of pumpkin soup, a string bean dish, another tomato salsa, chicken, and of course sticky rice. Again, family style on banana leaves, and all digging in. We had spoons for the soup, but all shared from the same two large bowls. After dinner one of the villagers came over with a bottle of lao-lao, and we passed the glass around until we'd finished it off. Later in the evening we were invited to sit around the fire with one small group of villagers. They took turns singing, there was lots of laughing, and several beers were passed around. Around the edge of the fire were a couple of small packages wrapped in banana leaves: tadpoles cooking for a late night snack.
In the morning we had a hearty breakfast of sticky rice, green beans, and eggs and then hit the trail again. We walked downstream along the river for a while, then climbed steeply up and over a ridge. Lunch on top, then a descent to a Lanten village on the other side. The Lanten have started to move away from their traditional subsistence farming (mostly rice) toward cash crops: primarily rubber and cotton. They spin the cotton, weave cloth, dye it, and produce some clothing as well as selling the cloth. Most of the local ag production is exported to China, which is just a few kilometers north of here and seems to be Laos' main trading partner.
Photo note: To keep things manageable, I'm starting a new Picasa album for the pictures since crossing into Laos.
The album with Thailand pics is at http://picasaweb.google.com/econodan/SoutheastAsiaWinter2011Part1. New pics are going into http://picasaweb.google.com/econodan/SoutheastAsiaWinter2011Part2.
Not much there yet, but stay tuned.
Friday, January 28, 2011
Luang Namtha, Laos
We're just back in Luang Namtha after a two-day trek into the nearby mountains. Details on the trek to follow.
Luang Namtha is a very peaceful and friendly town in a broad valley, and a center for trekking into the surrounding mountainous area. A large number of hill tribes live in protected areas (like national parks) here, and several outfitters lead trips to visit their villages.
The differences so far between the areas we visited in Thailand and Laos are striking. Part of this is no doubt due to the fact that we were in heavily visited areas in Thailand, and are now in a fairly small town. The pace here is slower, and people are quite friendly and open to foreign visitors. Laughter comes easily, and interactions feel more genuine. We plan to spend the next couple of days exploring the town and surrounding area on rented bikes and motorbikes.
Luang Namtha is a very peaceful and friendly town in a broad valley, and a center for trekking into the surrounding mountainous area. A large number of hill tribes live in protected areas (like national parks) here, and several outfitters lead trips to visit their villages.
The differences so far between the areas we visited in Thailand and Laos are striking. Part of this is no doubt due to the fact that we were in heavily visited areas in Thailand, and are now in a fairly small town. The pace here is slower, and people are quite friendly and open to foreign visitors. Laughter comes easily, and interactions feel more genuine. We plan to spend the next couple of days exploring the town and surrounding area on rented bikes and motorbikes.
Wednesday, January 26, 2011
Continuing northward
After returning to Chiang Mai, we took a bus the next morning north to Chiang Rai. This much smaller city felt much more like being in Thailand: signs not all in English, not full of Western visitors (farang). We found a small guest house on a quiet street, and spent an enjoyable evening browsing and mostly eating in the night market. Next morning we walked back to the center of town and caught a bus north to Chiang Khong, on the Mekong River and the border to Laos.
The bus ride was fun but tiring. It was a small local bus with very narrow seats and without a/c. Many stops for people to get on or off. On arrival in Chiang Khong, we caught a tuk-tuk for a thrilling ride the 2 km to the river. Changed most of our currency, cleared Thai immigration, and took a fast boat across the river to Huay Xai in Laos. Visas and immigration went smoothly, and we found a great hotel in town overlooking the Mekong. Another language to learn, and another currency to manage. The Lao kip is about 8000 to a dollar, so after a trip to the atm we were millionaires (about $124).
In the morning (today) we'd planned to take another local bus north to Luang Namtha, a trip of about 5 hours. Luckily we were able to hook up with a minibus going the same route: a little more money but only three hours and much more comfortable. This town is very quiet and friendly, and there is much to see in the surrounding area. We've signed up for a two-day trek starting tomorrow morning into the highlands nearby. More after we return.
The bus ride was fun but tiring. It was a small local bus with very narrow seats and without a/c. Many stops for people to get on or off. On arrival in Chiang Khong, we caught a tuk-tuk for a thrilling ride the 2 km to the river. Changed most of our currency, cleared Thai immigration, and took a fast boat across the river to Huay Xai in Laos. Visas and immigration went smoothly, and we found a great hotel in town overlooking the Mekong. Another language to learn, and another currency to manage. The Lao kip is about 8000 to a dollar, so after a trip to the atm we were millionaires (about $124).
In the morning (today) we'd planned to take another local bus north to Luang Namtha, a trip of about 5 hours. Luckily we were able to hook up with a minibus going the same route: a little more money but only three hours and much more comfortable. This town is very quiet and friendly, and there is much to see in the surrounding area. We've signed up for a two-day trek starting tomorrow morning into the highlands nearby. More after we return.
Monday, January 24, 2011
Trekking in Phong Dueat Park
We signed up for a two-day trek into the mountains north of Chiang Mai. In addition to us, the group included a couple from Flagstaff Az and a young couple from Gdansk Poland. The trip goes up into Phong Dueat National Park, which is home to many hill tribe village communities. After about an hour of driving, first stop was the Mork Fa waterfall. We did a little wading, but it was too cold to swim at the base of the falls. Next we stopped at the Phong Dueat geyser, where water boils up out of the ground and flows into a series of bathing pools. After a great lunch of rice with chicken and veggies we had time for a little soak in the pools before starting our hike. We walked up and over a ridge to our first stop at a small Karen village (about 14 families). Two women were pounding rice with a foot-operated press. But, there are photovoltaic panels provided by the government, one for each two houses, to provide some electricity to the village. Then, up and over another ridge for a couple of hours to another, slightly larger, village where we spent the night.
We arrived just as it was starting to get dark, and took turns showering (cold water under a hose) by candlelight before dinner. Our guide, Doh, prepared a great meal of chicken and vegetables over rice, and we were able to buy beers (!). This village connects to the outside world by a large enough trail to accommodate small motor bikes, handy for carrying their crops out and bringing supplies in. We were housed in a large room in a community building, thin mattresses on the floor with mosquito nets over, and blankets to supplement our Dream Sacks (very light silk sleeping bag liners, which we brought from home). Even though we were quite hot hiking during the day, it was very cold over night. In the morning we could see our breath, and several families had small fires going next to their homes to warm up.
After a hearty breakfast we hiked about an hour to another village where we picked up elephants for the next leg of the trek. The elephants carried us downstream, crossing several times from one side of the river to the other, for about an hour. We sat side by side on a wooden bench on the elephant’s back while Doh rode on the elephant’s head in front of us. We ended up at another small river-side village where a bamboo raft was under construction and almost ready to carry us downstream for the remainder of the trip. The raft ride was mostly relaxing and occasionally exciting (several class 2 rapids). Doh stood on the front and used a long piece of bamboo to pole the bottom or push off rocks for steering. Our young Polish companion stood at the back with another pole to help; the rest of us just sat on the raft and enjoyed the ride. We finished rafting at the village of Sop Kai, which is at the end of the road and a starting point for several whitewater excursions that head further downstream. After lunch there, we had a two-hour ride in the truck back to town.
Although fun, the trek was a little unsatisfying because we had only minimal and superficial contact with the villagers. At each village, people were very friendly, and women were there to sell us jewelry and other items they’d made. But we didn’t come away with a complete and genuine sense of their lives. Two days just isn’t enough time; we look forward to longer treks as we head onward.
Friday, January 21, 2011
Chiang Mai
Hard to keep track of the days, hard to keep up...
Night train from Bangkok to Chiang Mai was fun. We shared a small compartment with two Danish twenty-somethings, delightful fellows both, who have been traveling around Thailand for several weeks. Spent a long time chatting, then they disappeared to the party in the dining car and we went to bed. Arrived here mid-morning.
Although smaller than Bangkok, this is still way too urban for us. It's very popular with western tourists (mostly Europeans), and chock full of small guest houses, bars (Irish, Belgian, German, you name it). Although the town's core is a UNESCO World Heritage site, it's hard to tell with all the commercial activity. The big attraction are the numerous historic and truly magnificent wats. Orange- robed monks are everywhere and in the wats we were able to hear them chanting.
We have not found the courage yet to rent a motor bike as the traffic is heavy, the lanes non-existent, and the driving is on the opposite side of the road. We will probably wait for a smaller place to try our hand at this. Fortunately most of the town is walkable, and we've been mostly fine on foot.
As befits a major tourist destination, there is plenty of shopping and plenty of eating. In addition to the ample tourist infrastructure of restaurants, shops, and tour outfits on every block, there is a large daytime market (mostly for locals) and a very large nighttime market area with all kinds of things to buy.
Today's big outing was to the wat at Doi Suthep, one of the holiest spots in the whole country, at the top of a hill just outside of town. We cruised up in a songthieaw (?), a small pickup with two benches down the back. Given the twisty road, not a trip for the faint of heart or weak of stomach. The wat itself is magnificent, especially if you go in for gold-coated everything and Buddha images by the score.
Tomorrow we head out on a two-day trek into the mountains north of here. Will try to catch up with picture posting after we return.
Night train from Bangkok to Chiang Mai was fun. We shared a small compartment with two Danish twenty-somethings, delightful fellows both, who have been traveling around Thailand for several weeks. Spent a long time chatting, then they disappeared to the party in the dining car and we went to bed. Arrived here mid-morning.
Although smaller than Bangkok, this is still way too urban for us. It's very popular with western tourists (mostly Europeans), and chock full of small guest houses, bars (Irish, Belgian, German, you name it). Although the town's core is a UNESCO World Heritage site, it's hard to tell with all the commercial activity. The big attraction are the numerous historic and truly magnificent wats. Orange- robed monks are everywhere and in the wats we were able to hear them chanting.
We have not found the courage yet to rent a motor bike as the traffic is heavy, the lanes non-existent, and the driving is on the opposite side of the road. We will probably wait for a smaller place to try our hand at this. Fortunately most of the town is walkable, and we've been mostly fine on foot.
As befits a major tourist destination, there is plenty of shopping and plenty of eating. In addition to the ample tourist infrastructure of restaurants, shops, and tour outfits on every block, there is a large daytime market (mostly for locals) and a very large nighttime market area with all kinds of things to buy.
Today's big outing was to the wat at Doi Suthep, one of the holiest spots in the whole country, at the top of a hill just outside of town. We cruised up in a songthieaw (?), a small pickup with two benches down the back. Given the twisty road, not a trip for the faint of heart or weak of stomach. The wat itself is magnificent, especially if you go in for gold-coated everything and Buddha images by the score.
Tomorrow we head out on a two-day trek into the mountains north of here. Will try to catch up with picture posting after we return.
Tuesday, January 18, 2011
Up the river in Bangkok
Today's big outing was a trip up the river, as far as the bus-boat goes, to Nonthanburi. Much more of an authentic Thai town feel than the tourist-heavy neighborhood where we've been staying. We found a very pretty small neighborhood temple, and spent some time strolling in the local market. Live turtles, eels, and fish of many varieties were on sale. Tonight the train to Chiang Mai, should be there in the morning.
Monday, January 17, 2011
blogging issues
Just looked at the last post, and it appears that some of the text is missing. I'll try to figure out what's going on and fix it...
The journey begins
After who knows how many hours of travel, we arrived in Bangkok around midnight on Saturday. Cab to the hotel, check in, head out for a beer. The area where we're staying, Banglamphu, is very popular with the backpacking set, and full of young people.
Sunday we walked over to the must-see Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaeo. Wow.
It seems easier at this point to post pics on Picasa rather than embed them in this blog, so for illustrations open a second tab and point it to http://picasaweb.google.com/econodan/SoutheastAsiaWinter2011#. Note that pictures are by both of us.
Monday (today) we took a cab to the train station to buy tickets for tomorrow, then walked down through Chinatown to the river, and took a boat (sort of a bus on the main river through the city) up to the Thonburi area. Walked through a large market, what must be one of the largest hospital complexes anywhere, and eventually to the Royal Barge Museum. After a lot of additional wandering and exploring we finally made it back to the hotel.
I'll try to add more, and write with more zip, soon. Until then, here's hoping the pictures speak for themselves.
Sunday we walked over to the must-see Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaeo. Wow.
It seems easier at this point to post pics on Picasa rather than embed them in this blog, so for illustrations open a second tab and point it to http://picasaweb.google.com/econodan/SoutheastAsiaWinter2011#. Note that pictures are by both of us.
Monday (today) we took a cab to the train station to buy tickets for tomorrow, then walked down through Chinatown to the river, and took a boat (sort of a bus on the main river through the city) up to the Thonburi area. Walked through a large market, what must be one of the largest hospital complexes anywhere, and eventually to the Royal Barge Museum. After a lot of additional wandering and exploring we finally made it back to the hotel.
I'll try to add more, and write with more zip, soon. Until then, here's hoping the pictures speak for themselves.
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